Fun encounters with children in Northern Vietnam
The land of Northern Vietnam, next to the Chinese borders, is harsh and lacks the lush serenity of the south. Enveloped in misty cloaks, it is more mystical than fertile, making the life for the tribes that swarm the curvy slopes onerous and bleak. The locals seem expressionless as if their faces are carved on material as rough as the fields that surround them, and smiles are almost forgotten. Even children are gloomy and distant, sulking away, and we were surprised that, during our trip, most of them chose to ignore our presence despite our friendly disposition, colourful gear, and exotic snacks in our pockets. Curiosity and playfulness had been nulled under the urgency for survival. And yet, we had three adorable encounters, the tenderness of which came in sharp contrast to the general temperament we experienced, reminding us that growth and joy can come only from the authenticity of a child’s heart.
At lunch, at a Black H’Mong house
We were still at the beginning of our hiking trip when we stopped for lunch at a Black H’Mong house –one of the poorest in the area. As soon as we crouched through the tiny entrance – a rectangular gap outlined by a few planks loosely put together – our male guides disappeared into the kitchen to smoke, chat, and prepare the food, while the rest of us sat in awkward silence in the main room, exchanging glances with the grandma, the mother, and some of the children. The boys hid their face and disappeared quickly, but the two young girls boldly walked towards us, confiscated our hiking poles, and posed for photos. After a while, they even brought their schoolbooks and attempted to teach us how to read in Vietnamese, their little fingers carefully sliding under each syllable, giggles escaping their lips at the sound of our clumsy pronunciation. Their friskiness and welcoming attitude became contagious, and soon we (the women) were all talking, trying to exchange stories despite the language barrier, bridging the differences of our worlds through our wish to connect.
The two little girls holding one of our hiking poles.
My friend, Suzanne Al Houby, learning to read Vietnamese.
A class is in progress. This time, the mother, the grandma, and other members of the family join as well.
Homestay at a Tay house
On the fourth day of our hike, we left the more impoverished Black H’mong area behind us and moved towards the Tay area that was less mountainous and more fertile. Many details marked the change: the quality of the houses, the size of the animals, the number of people, the slightly relaxed faces around us. The best was kept for last, though, as in our homestay, we met with little Yin, a 2.5-year-old girl who kept smiling with the crooked smile of her age. Her arms were always open for a hug, and every now and then she stood on her stool to give a singing performance, bringing forth her toys and treasures to share with us. Her spontaneity and joy were so abundant that, we felt, were filling the house like an intangible wave of gold, turning that night into our best experience on the trail.
Little Yin hugging her mom.
Look at that smile!
Strolling around a village
On our fifth day, we arrived at a village – I cannot recall the name – larger than all the others we had crossed so far. Our homestay was decent – there was even hot water – but the hosts were rather sullen, and we missed the glee we had experienced the night before with Yin. Still, we attempted a brief exploration of the village and there, for the first time, we encountered a group of children, boys and girls, playing in the streets. Some were walking on stilts, others were playing hide-and-seek, and all rushed to our side, proudly posing for photos, leaning then next to us to check their faces on our cameras. There were cheekiness and playfulness in their attitude, and this compensated for a dull evening in the house.
Playing in the streets of a village in Northern Vietnam
Look at the joy on the faces! Adorable! (photo credits: Suzanne Al Houby)
Photo credits: © Konstantina Sakellariou (unless otherwise stated).
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