The Formidable Al Rustaq Fort
We reached Rustaq at the end of a long, road trip in Oman, and, although we were pressed by time, we decided to stop briefly, for the town had more to offer than what initially meets the eye. Although today Rustaq lives in a state of somnolence that is typical of most rural Arab settlements, it acted as the capital city of Oman in the 17th century, and remnants of this glamour are still palpable in the area. The town stretches at the far northern fringes of Jabal Shams, one-hour driving distance from Muscat, and is blessed with plenty of water as evidenced by the lush oasis that expands on the plains, and the numerous falaj canals that run alongside the roads. It features the magnificent Al Rustaq Fort – as well as the Nakhal and the Al Hamz Forts in the proximity – and is known for its thermal waters that attract many locals in search of therapeutic relief to chronic pains.
Although today Rustaq lives in a state of drowsiness that is typical of most rural Arab settlements, it acted as the capital city of Oman in the 17th century, and remnants of this glamour are still palpable in the area.
The green oasis of Rustaq 
Water canals through the town.
At the outskirts of Rustaq, we were welcomed by the remains of mudbrick houses, underground canals, and a dilapidating tower. There was no sign anywhere, so I am not sure of any name or date related to these fragments of local history. Nevertheless, they were delightful to explore – and, since they felt much more authentic than the recently-renovated Fort, I found them deliciously enchanting.
On the other hand, Al Rustaq Fort remains spectacular – one of the most impressive in Oman – and bears witness to a glorious page of the country’s history. Although its date of construction in the pre-Islamic period is blurry, its fame reached its peak in the 17th century, with the election of Nasir bin Murshid in the position of the Imam, the founding of the Yaruba dynasty of Imams, and the establishment of Rustaq as the capital city.
Main entrance to Al Rustaq Fort 
The central courtyard of the Al Rustaq Fort with cannons. 
The fort has four main towers, one of which is almost 80 m high 
Canals with water running under the fort. 
The nearby souq (market) from above. 
Decorated wooden entrance to one of the rooms of the Imam’s family 
Painted beams on the ceiling (traditional Omani decoration). 
The old majlis
The beginning of the 17th century was a turbulent time for Oman since the strength of the Nabhani dynasty (that had been ruling for 250 years) was fading fast, and the dominant Portuguese presence on the coastline had deprived the Omanis of the financial benefits their geographical location guaranteed. As the tribes that constituted the local population stood weakened and leaderless, Sheikh Nasir bin Murshid al-Yaarebi rose to the occasion. After being elected as the new Imam by an assembly of notables in Rustaq, he unified the tribes on a campaign against the Portuguese to regain control of the major coastal cities. By the end of his life, he managed to limit the Portuguese presence through wars, treaties, and the occasional support of the British who, at that time, entered the geopolitical arena of the area. His successor finally expelled the Portuguese from all Omani territories, and the country flourished, until the 19th century, as a considerable naval force in the region.
Near the Rustaq Fort, there are the famous Ain Al Kasfah hot springs that feed into the neighbouring – and quite unglamorous – hammam (public bath). The locals may believe that the waters have therapeutic properties, and, there is undoubtedly some cultural interest for a foreign traveller, but, in general, I found the rumours of these hot baths far exceeding the reality.
Water canals near the hot baths of Rustaq 
The hot baths of Rustaq
Forts like Al Rustaq in the inland of Oman act as a reminder of the differences – and the occasional feuds – between the more secular, seafaring population along the coastal line, and the tribal, conservative communities in the mountainous and desert-dominated backcountry. For centuries, the power of the sovereigns based on the coast was only nominal in the countryside, where the Imamate was stronger under the leadership of the Imam. Although on the surface, the differences had a religious flair– the Imams were practising the Ibadi sect of Islam – in truth, it was a confrontation of political power and a reaction to the British interference. The situation was aggravated in the 20th century with the discovery of oil and the decision of the Sultan in Muscat – supported by the Western powers – to proceed to excavations in the Imam-controlled land. Finally, after severe conflicts and a decisive British interference, the territories were united once and for all under the leadership of Sultan Qaboos who ruled peacefully and without any interruption from 1970 until his death in January 2020. As such, today, Oman offers to every traveller pristine landscapes of unparalleled beauty, heartwarming hospitality, and a sense of security and unity that feels as if it existed forever.
Today, Oman offers to every traveller pristine landscapes of unparalleled beauty, heartwarming hospitality, and a sense of security and unity that feels as if it existed forever.
Photos: © Konstantina Sakellariou.
